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You can buy braided HP lines from all sorts of places for <$80-90. Shouldn't ever have a problem after that.
I got a HICAS rack for $250ish, think that's the going rate. Seen a few in junkyards from cars with heavy hits to the front wheels, and were still $100, so I never jumped on one(if they're in good shape they get picked quickly).
'18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!
DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902
Easy way to fix the power steering line. I just installed mine, but haven't been able to drive it yet since im still finishing my ka-t.
You can see the line in this picture. Not too expensive either.
My car is a track only car, but I'd have no problem driving it on the street- it would suck if you had to parallel park, but I do 3 pt turns in the driveway with it on a fairly regular basis. I wouldn't want to do it all day every day (hell I figure I'd twist the steering column off in that case!), but it's not bad at all once you get moving.
Also, The steering wheel I have on the car is a couple inches smaller than the stock wheel, so it takes a lot more effort to turn as well. If I move to a larger steering wheel, (have one on order) it will help a ton in the steering effort category. just waiting for it to show up.
Originally posted by SoSideways
I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
'04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
'96 240SX- The Track Toy
Matt, how was the depowered rack?
Did you drive it on the street?
pros/cons?
My HP line is broken, and I don't even want to look up what ridiculous amount they sell for, let alone find and buy one.
Anyone have a creative way to fix the high pressure line if it's broken at the hardline/fitting? lol
Anyone have one they want to send me?
One -6 to 16x1.5
One -6 to 14x1.5
Two -6 90* hose ends for high pressure (non swivle kind)
Then I'd get 3 foot of high pressure -6 hydraulic hose. I got the two metric fittings from Summitt, but sourced the rest at a local hydraulic shop as it was cheaper.
I'd also suggest using the Permetex high temp/high pressure hydraulic fitting goop instead of regular teflon. Don't forget copper crush washers as well.
'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
[I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
[SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]
Nothing in the PS system needs thread sealant like Teflon tape/dope. Do not use it on straight metric threads(seal with washer) or AN fittings(seal on flare face).
It is an unnecessary risk of FOD being introduced in the system, and it makes you look like a total fitting nOOb.
'18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!
DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902
Nothing in the PS system needs thread sealant like Teflon tape/dope. Do not use it on straight metric threads(seal with washer) or AN fittings(seal on flare face).
It is an unnecessary risk of FOD being introduced in the system, and it makes you look like a total fitting nOOb.
I guess when Caterpillar sells the stuff this stuff on their non taper male fittings they must be wrong?
This stuff is designed for hydraulic systems where fittings meet hard parts -- works great. I'm not talking about tin the actual -6 to -6 connection, but where the fittings screw in the rack. Ultimately I'd say weld two bungs there, but I'm sure it would melt the o rings inside the rack somehow...and that's a 'no go' if you ask me. Luckily the power steering cast part is steel, as I just had fittings welded on here no issue.
In fact there are times on road calls where you gotta get stuff up and moving, and lets say don't have the right crush washer on truck...and just using this stuff works to the point where most guys dont' even come back...scary how well it works, yet while remaining not some perma-bond hard crap.
IMO our cars are a perfect scenario here, as if you take that O-Ring fitting into the rack, and try to tighten it down all the way...well, it won't...it ends nearly up bottoming out, IMO rendering the O ring part useless. I've seen 3-4 cars first hand with custom setups for power steering...all leaked. Mine doesn't. Maybe my way is the way way, but it doesn't leak.
'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
[I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
[SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]
I just remembered that I have some extra braided + AN fuel lines kicking around from my Maxima setup. Would the longer line in this pic work for the HP line?
IIRC, its probably not long enough, and i think my high pressure line was a -6 or smaller, whereas that looks like -10 line. my ps line is like 3 feet or 4 feet long
IIRC, its probably not long enough, and i think my high pressure line was a -6 or smaller, whereas that looks like -10 line. my ps line is like 3 feet or 4 feet long
I had one made it was no more than 3 feet. 28~32" IIRC. I never used it since I went "full manual".
EDIT: This is a picture of a line. It's not very long. I think I have one too if anyone wants it. It's steel braided hose approximately this same length and -6.
o, i forgot i was on this forum. The line for my LS pump comes out of the front passenger side of the pump and has to be much longer. Looks like that line might work if you are still on a nissan motor/pump
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