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  • Brake Setup Question

    I have some general brake setup questions, some stemming from the "Choosing a bmc" thread. Figured I'd get your input.

    1) My car was ABS, and those components are removed now, so I have to run new lines anyway. Previously there was one front line running to the ABS block, then a split from there (see picture).

    Should I go ahead and use both front outlets for either side now, or should I just use a splitter block on that one line for the fronts? Will there be any difference - is the dual outlet just internally split?
    i.e. splitter block & dual outlet would be the same?




    2) How does the 1 1/16" bmc suit my brake setup?

    Brembo front brakes
    4 piston (not 100% on the diameter)
    13" rotor I believe

    Z32 rear brakes

    Now non-ABS.

    The car was originally automatic, if that makes a difference to the booster, or my selection of bmc at all.
    In Zipties We Trust....

  • #2
    Should have kept the abs, good for autocrossing and saving your tires from flat spotting.

    Ive been using the 1 1/16ths BMC with my z32 fr and Rr calipers for over 2yrs, no problems with the setup so far. Only have 3 HPDE's under my belt though don't think I've maximized my braking yet.
    SM 63 KA-t 470hp 480tq G30-660 A2W IC

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    • #3
      I use a Z31 master cylinder, and have them hooked up just like OE...one rear fitting, and then using both 'port' for each front rotor.
      'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
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      • #4
        Originally posted by GodspeedS13 View Post
        Should have kept the abs, good for autocrossing and saving your tires from flat spotting.

        Ive been using the 1 1/16ths BMC with my z32 fr and Rr calipers for over 2yrs, no problems with the setup so far. Only have 3 HPDE's under my belt though don't think I've maximized my braking yet.

        The ABS was never functional, as they removed the front ABS rings. I just removed all the extra weight and crap associated with the non-functional system. I hate ABS on newer cars (01+ Maxima's, 00+ VX's, etc.), so I assume the older '95 240 system would have been bad. I'd rather get the feel of the system myself than deal with an unpredictable ABS system.



        Originally posted by CodyAce View Post
        I use a Z31 master cylinder, and have them hooked up just like OE...one rear fitting, and then using both 'port' for each front rotor.
        When you say Z31, do you mean the 15/16" bmc?
        How do you like the feel, and what brakes?
        In Zipties We Trust....

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        • #5
          Get the Brembo piston diameter and count (I assume 4) and I can plug that into my sheet.

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          • #6
            I had posted that they were 13" - 4 piston, but they're actually 332mmx32mm (13.07xx"), so probably use 13.1".

            I can't find anything on the Brembo GT site that tells me the piston size, they've even omitted it from the technical drawing best I can tell.

            http://www.brembo.com/CatalogoHPGT/D...5Cfamily_B.pdf

            I'll have to measure them this weekend.
            So you measure ID or OD of the piston? (They're sort of a cup.)

            Kit number is 1B1.7012A
            Caliper family_B

            http://www.brembo.com/CatalogoHPGT/D...12A&idLingua=1

            http://www.brembo.com/CatalogoHPGT/Templates/SearchHPGT.aspx?NRMODE=Published&NRNODEGUID={0DECE 949-F261-4E29-A729-C4A049DD61FE}&NRORIGINALURL=%2fUS%2fPerformance%2f GranturismoCatalogue%2f&NRCACHEHINT=NoModifyGuest
            In Zipties We Trust....

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Solo_S14 View Post
              I'll have to measure them this weekend.
              So you measure ID or OD of the piston? (They're sort of a cup.)
              O.D.

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              • #8
                I have the 17/16 bmc. I'm not happy with the pedal modulation and the required pressure to hit the threshold of at-the-limit braking. I'd try a 1" before anything. I believe I've also read that the z32 bmc has more forward biased braking. In that case I think it would be best to run a proportioning valve for the rear brakes while running a little bit more of an agressive pad in the rear.

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                • #9
                  Wouldn't running a proportioning valve only reduce the rear pressure, or max it out at the original pressure?

                  I know that I saw a guy post a long time ago about removing the rear restrictor, then using a prop. valve. (may have been you or Ace-in-hole even) But I never saw an update on the thread. I think I even posted up a few months ago for updates, but I guess it never got up & running.
                  In Zipties We Trust....

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                  • #10
                    I think that was AceInHole as well.
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                    • #11
                      On the topic of brake setup, where can I find braided rear lines for Z32 brakes on a budget?
                      In Zipties We Trust....

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                      • #12
                        spl.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Solo_S14 View Post
                          Wouldn't running a proportioning valve only reduce the rear pressure, or max it out at the original pressure?

                          I know that I saw a guy post a long time ago about removing the rear restrictor, then using a prop. valve. (may have been you or Ace-in-hole even) But I never saw an update on the thread. I think I even posted up a few months ago for updates, but I guess it never got up & running.
                          I did remove the rear proportioning valve that was built into the 240sx bmc in place of the Tilton proportioning valve. At that time I was running 240sx stock brakes with Porterfield's R4S pads both front and rear. When I did so, I did get more rear bite, but the rears still did not lock. Unfortunately, I eventually warped the rotors due to overheating and maybe improper cooling. Hence my switch to 2 piston calipers like yourself.

                          Sorry I didn't elaborate before. I have a habit of posting up while on my iphone laying in bed bout to sleep I meant to suggest running a proportioning valve for the rear lines while running a much aggressive pad in the rear as opposed to the front. That way you can trim away the excess bite in the rear by limiting the pressure applied to the rear. Currently, I have the valve set to fully open, the front and rear pads using Porterfield R4S, and consistently locking up the fronts. I know the rears can do much more work, so I plan to pick up a set of more aggressive pads suggested by Porterfield. I'll post up however that works. I'm running Stoptech brakes both front and rear (4 piston front 2 piston rear). I'm also running Bridgestone RE01Rs front, and Goodyear F1 DS3? in the rear.
                          Last edited by mmdb; 03-29-2010, 01:50 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Thanks E1_griego, I never realized they were so cheap there.
                            Better than the $80 - $100 I've seen.

                            mmbd, I'm running Brembo 13" 4 piston fronts and Z32 2-piston rears.
                            The car came with Endless Blues all around, they don't suit my needs.
                            I have the stock Brembo pads on the fronts now, and am going to try a Hawk HP+ or similar pad on the rear to do pretty much what you're saying.

                            I've got a Wilwood proportioning valve in the tool box, but haven't installed it.
                            We'll see how the brakes work this year first.
                            In Zipties We Trust....

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                            • #15
                              that sounds cool. I'm not sure if you run in a particular group/venue with strict rules, but it'd be great if you could stick the proportioning valve inside the cabin so you can tweak it as you see fit.

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