Traction and toe rod DIY parts

[amgvr4]

Im putting together a package for the diyer to make your own traction and toe rods for far less than what big name companies cost. The brackets are laser cut and cnc bent and the 5/8 to 12mm bushings are cnc machined for consistency. Im looking into the cost of having them powder coated as well. The rest of the parts needed are readily available at almost any race supply shop. I will give suggestions for rod ends, jam nuts and the popper lengths for the center threaded sections.

All of the first production run are spoken for. As soon as this group is finished and delivered I will look into making another batch. Thanks to all who jumped in on the action early.

The Traction Rod threaded centers need to be 4" long and the Toe rods need to be 9.5"

Rod ends need to be 5/8-18 left hand thread with 5/8" bore

You will need two right hand jam nuts and two left hand jam nuts per kit.


The list:
JC_Freak x1
Gigapunk x2
jmauld x2
Nissankat x1
Air x2
GodspeedS13 x2
JSC x2
ericb382 x1
Ruff Ryder 6 x2
WilloW x1


Pictures of the finished product ready to ship.





Everything that is included in one kit, if you ordered two then it will be doubled.



Brad

[JSC]

Sounds wonderful. As for powdercoating, if offered as a DIY kit, Id be more inclined to buy a less expensive uncoated kit, but would pay a bit more for a good quality coating on completed arms.

Would you be coating just the clevis end? I'm assuming that the misalignment spacers are aluminum, so it shouldn't really be necessary.

... Im looking into the cost of having them powder coated as well...
Price should be about $50 for a set of two brackets and four spacers.

[jmauld]

I'm in.

[Matt93SE]

Look into zinc/CAD plating as well. I can get it done locally for $75 for as much as you can throw in a basket (which will hold about 500lb of parts).
tougher than powdercoating and cheaper.

[a_ahmed]

lol why didnt come up with this idea two years ago... you bastard Nice work though

NRR is rockin' lately with innovation

[Matt93SE]

Nothing that new, really... I made my own 5+ years ago.

http://blehmco.com/pics/240SX/suspension/100_1116.jpg

[Gigapunk]

I'd be in!

[Def]

I'd recommend QA-1 rod ends over those cheap Auroras. $30 buys you much more rod end than the VC series Auroras. I say this having 2 on my car - they're pretty underwhelming in all respects.

[amgvr4]

Def...
The rod end choice is up to the person putting the arms together, thats the best part about this set up, you can customize it to your liking. I have been using inexpensive non ptfe lined rod ends on my tc rods I made for the last few years and they worked great. Just switched them out for the mid grade Auroras as the old ones had developed a small amount of slop. The funny thing is that even the auroras are better quality that just about any rod ends that are spec on brand name arms.

Matt93SE...
There is a metal finishing shop that does plating near me. I can check into pricing that too.

JSC...
I have thought about that too and might throw that in as an option as well. The spacers are 6061 aluminum so I wouldnt have them coated.

a_ahmed...
I just got my 240 two years ago... before that I was doing this kind of stuff for my Datsun 510s. Here are some of my previous projects.

510 front end after custom tc rods, lca, 240sx coilovers, 300zx brakes and five lug conversion.

510 tc rods

240sx coils adapted to s13 se v6 struts

240sx tc rods


510 lca

[cazman]

Not a bad idea really

I've been making these arms in Australia for a few Yeats now and that's not the ultra hard bit at least

that's the exact cost that I would retail those components for. I have them built and ready to go for any one is Aus too.

[a_ahmed]

cool stuff man

[Gigapunk]

Any chance of making the brackets out of stainless? Then they wouldn't need any powdercoating at all!

[Matt93SE]

Stainless looks sexy, but it is weaker and doesn't handle flex well. it's more brittle than regular steels. I wouldn't want to make a suspension part for a track car out of stainless. You want your parts to bend in an agricultural maneuver, not break.

that said, you *can* bend stainless, but I don't think the fatigue strength is same as regular steels.

[JC_Freak]

I woud be down.

[Def]

Most stainless steels will have a slightly lower yield strength than mild steel. Their elongation at 2% yield is also lower(less ductile).