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Cheap Ebay Traction Arms - Did anyone else need to cut theirs down?

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  • Cheap Ebay Traction Arms - Did anyone else need to cut theirs down?

    Did anyone else look at the differences between stock, and these?

    Stock Is 8.25 center to center of each hole

    Open 'bottoming' out the Ebay Arms from SureWinProducts (http://cgi.ebay.com/Nissan-240SX-95-...item3efc5383dc) I was only able to get a measurement of 8.5.

    I found some old threads were Epstein and others commented that a length of 8" or even 7.75" was best.

    I ended up taking the chop saw to these and hacked 5/8" off to get the measurement I needed. Even If I were to go longer, there is PLENTY of hardware length available yet.


    Just curious to others opinions/findings


    Here are some pics of them too for those who want to see what they look like. Once again, these came with that 'racer red' coating. I just bombed them black, didn't bother with the other end.





    'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
    [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
    [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

  • #2
    If you used shorter jam nuts you probably could have gotten close to the 8.25" center to center measurement.

    The the M16 nuts that went on the FLCAs, the normal nuts were like 12mm tall, and the shorter jam nuts were 8mm tall, so that's 4mm per jam nut.

    Looks like there are 3 on those... so they would add up.
    http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

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    • #3
      I have some cheap Ebay arms and they had enough adjustment to be shorter than the stock arms... I went with stock length at the time.
      -Monty

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      • #4
        I have a set of ebay arms that I've set at 8" length that needed no modifications. They could probably go down to around 7.75-7.5" bottomed out.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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        • #5
          On my car lengthening the rod reduced the bump steer. Seems to be the opposite of most of you guys here. I plotted a few different traction arm lengths (making sure I redid my toe and camber after changing the length of the traction rod) and then checked the toe with every 10mm of compression and droop. On my car shortening the arm actually made the bump steer worse.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by CodyAce View Post
            Did anyone else look at the differences between stock, and these?

            Stock Is 8.25 center to center of each hole

            Open 'bottoming' out the Ebay Arms from SureWinProducts (http://cgi.ebay.com/Nissan-240SX-95-...item3efc5383dc) I was only able to get a measurement of 8.5.

            I found some old threads were Epstein and others commented that a length of 8" or even 7.75" was best.

            I ended up taking the chop saw to these and hacked 5/8" off to get the measurement I needed. Even If I were to go longer, there is PLENTY of hardware length available yet.


            Just curious to others opinions/findings


            Here are some pics of them too for those who want to see what they look like. Once again, these came with that 'racer red' coating. I just bombed them black, didn't bother with the other end.
            My experience with the traction arm adjustment was mixed. I got better toe curves at 8" under compression than I did at 8.25" and 8.5". But, it wanted to bind a lot sooner than when I had it at 8.5".

            That was with a DIY toe plate and 2 dial calipers. I plan on repeating this with some real gear and doing the front as well.
            She's built like a Steakhouse, but she handles like a Bistro.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by SoSideways View Post
              If you used shorter jam nuts you probably could have gotten close to the 8.25" center to center measurement.

              The the M16 nuts that went on the FLCAs, the normal nuts were like 12mm tall, and the shorter jam nuts were 8mm tall, so that's 4mm per jam nut.

              Looks like there are 3 on those... so they would add up.
              Obviously getting shorter jam nuts was an option, but chopping them was free

              I was just curious as to those who used these and their findings in regard to the lengths. Perhaps s14/s13 are different lengths?
              'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
              [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
              [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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              • #8
                S13 and S14 traction arms are the same length, from what I remember.

                Just bought a Maximum Motorsports bump steer gauge. Tune in next weekend.
                She's built like a Steakhouse, but she handles like a Bistro.

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                • #9
                  Interested in your findings Epstein.

                  I'm going to redo mine again soon as I'm changing the alignment so I'll see what the result is with the new alignment.

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                  • #10
                    Cody mentioned center of hole measurements, is that what everyone else used for theirs?

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                    • #11
                      I measured from center hole to center hole, and mine was at 8.5", not 8.25" from looking at my post above... though I could of taken them down to 8" easily enough.
                      -Monty

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                      • #12
                        I measured from center of each bolt head. I have mine set at 8".

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Epstein View Post
                          S13 and S14 traction arms are the same length, from what I remember.
                          Good to know

                          Originally posted by Epstein View Post
                          Just bought a Maximum Motorsports bump steer gauge. Tune in next weekend.
                          Get outa my favorite Mustang Catalog I love MM, their stuff is incredibly well designed and engineered. Fits the first time, and there are never any issues. Prices are great too!
                          'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
                          [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
                          [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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                          • #14
                            Whoever is making bushing drifts (Def?) should check out what MM has. That's what I always wanted to have when suffering with mine and different sized sockets.
                            She's built like a Steakhouse, but she handles like a Bistro.

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                            • #15
                              For subframe bushings - it looks expensive. The tubing needs to be so big it's like $20 just for a short section of it. Way more than I was expecting to spend for a little project that might not even work that great.

                              You still need to cut the lip off the bushings of the subframe and pull them up, so if it's not really cheap to make one/two then it isn't worth it.
                              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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