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Trying not to beat a dead horse (subframe bushing install questions)

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  • Trying not to beat a dead horse (subframe bushing install questions)

    So I picked up a set of s13 Nismo subframe bushings from craigslist ($50! brand new!) and it seems that jinxed my current setup which is making even more noise now. This is s13 subframe q for s13 btw, nothing fancy, and not really looking to switch to s14 right now.

    I'm debating putting the nismo ones in or just springing for solids and dealing with the noise but obviously more rigid mounting. Are solids easier to install?

    Beyond that, are there any tips/tricks for easier bushing removal that anyone can share? I've read the writeups, I just trust folks here about 3x as much.

    I know this is a noob subframe post in a sea of more technical discussions, but oh well .

    Thanks!

  • #2
    I'm not sure if the Nismos require you to drop the whole subframe, but that's the hardest part. Taking out the original bushings will require you to take a jigsaw and cut out the collars in between the subframe and bushings. Just be careful not to chop the subframe.

    When I installed mine I was recommended to stick the solid subframes bushings in the fridge to help them shrink a bit. Either way it was pretty hard to get the stupid things in place. I'd recommend the use of a press if you have it. Also, there's someone on Freshalloy I believe that's done the install. Good luck!

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    • #3
      Yeah, well I will be doing this on a lift with the use of a tranny jack, press, air tools, etc lol.

      The nismo bushings have the metal sleeve already installed, so I can cut the stock one out.

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      • #4
        I was on FA, and I've done it. Maybe it was me?

        You have to drop the subframe to do the Nismos. I just drilled out all the rubber and middle, then took a hacksaw to the band. I pressed in the Nismos with some 5/8" threaded rod, 2 turnbuckles, and assorted crap to hold the subframe and bushing. Make sure you get the right orientation. The Nismos still have voids and filled in areas, like the stockers. I'm pretty sure you set it up so that the rears go left-right (referencing the filled in parts) and the fronts go forward-backward.
        She's built like a Steakhouse, but she handles like a Bistro.

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        • #5
          oh didn't even look on fa for a writeup. thanks for the info!

          should i put the nismos in or just buck up and get solids?

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          • #6
            buck up, buttercup.
            Originally posted by SoSideways
            I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
            '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
            '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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            • #7
              The Energy Suspension is solid polyeurethane, maybe a good compromise between Nismo and solid aluminum?

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              • #8
                Yeah I thought of that too.

                Or MMR http://www.mmr-direct.com/catalog1/S13/index.htm

                Or maybe the PBM risers.

                Still quite undecided as you can tell

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                • #9
                  Go with the ES! To be quite honest, I can't see any super awesome advantage of the Aluminum vs the ES ones, especially at the price difference. That Poly isn't going to flex/wear out in our existance, so who cares! That solid metal bushing does the clamping, and the Poly is damn near resitant to anything we'll throw at it!


                  As the above guys aid, yes cutting that second 'shell' is crucial in making it easy. Sure you can burn em out and that works too, but after doing 2 with the fire method, and two with the 'melt the bushing out, then cut the metal liner', I will say that method 2 works much faster. Remember though to cut through the FIRST sleeve, not the second with the poly install
                  'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
                  [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
                  [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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                  • #10
                    Well I already have the nismo ones.

                    Worth selling and buying the poly?

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                    • #11
                      Hard to say. Nismo is 'hard' rubber right? I mean, in the end of the day we all own cars that see double duty (well 95% of us realistically do). Sure aluminum is 'the best' but how much 'worse' are the ES or the Nismo. In a situation like yours, I'd run the Nismo bushings (if they are OE replacment) with a set of collars, and be done.
                      'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
                      [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
                      [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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                      • #12
                        ^yeah, I think imma just stick with those since my car sees plenty of street time.

                        Install will be a whore, I'm sure, but time to give it a whirl. The clunking -- even with the collars -- is getting annoying.

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                        • #13
                          I'd say aluminum cause they'll never wear out the noise isn't bad at all either... Just turn up the radio.

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                          • #14
                            DO NOT get the MMR plastic bushings. They're almost the same as aluminum, but too soft to handle the load from the subframe nuts and cup washers. They get crushed from that over time and loosen up. As soon as your torque wrench clicks, they're already crushed. So you torque again, and they get crushed even more. So after a year they looked like this:
                            http://s139.photobucket.com/albums/q...MMRbushing.jpg

                            The dents are from the cup washers. Gotta go with aluminum, for anything softer you need a steel core in the bushings.

                            I'm fine with my Nismo bushings. It's only a tiny bit noisier. When the rubber gets softer I'll just stuff some urethane collars (like Peak Performance stuff) for the top and bottom, and fill the gaps with Windoweld.

                            Copying what I wrote to el_griego if someone needs:
                            The only tip I have is the orientation of these bushings. I hadn't known this until I looked at pics of the stock subframe. It seems that the grooves on the rubber all point forward, the front ones also slightly toward the center of the car. My Nismo bushings were not pressed in correctly, but I don't think it matters too much. Here's what the stocker looked like:
                            http://s139.photobucket.com/albums/q...rame_bush1.jpg
                            http://s139.photobucket.com/albums/q...rame_bush2.jpg
                            Last edited by hai1206vn; 08-15-2011, 07:54 PM.

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                            • #15
                              ^awesome, thanks a bunch!.

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