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s14 rear subframe into s13 - prepping the subframe? Q45 info (not the same old q's)

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  • s14 rear subframe into s13 - prepping the subframe? Q45 info (not the same old q's)

    Hi guys,

    I haven't gotten around to making an intro thread, and I've been meaning to.

    But in the meantime, I'm trying to get this damn s14 rear subframe into my s13 coupe.

    I will be using the spl offset solid subframe bushings.

    I have a couple of questions though:

    What should I do to prepare the subframe before installing it?

    I noticed a bit of surface rust here and there - shouldn't I grind that off and then use something to seal it and repaint it? I'm guessing I can grind off the rust, then pressure wash the subframe, let it dry, then prep and primer + paint it? What kind of paint and primer should I use?

    What else should I do? Dimple die gusset it? Reinforce it for strength/ rigidity in certain key areas? Fill it with foam?

    I intend to install this at the same time as my q45 rear end - so should I also use the solid spl diff mount bushings? Or can I wait on that and do it later? (Or is it better to do it with the subframe out of the car?)

    Also, when I purchased the subframe, it came with all the arms on the right side except for the lca. And on the left side, it only came with the lca and rear arm. So could someone please clarify what arms are physically similar dimensionally from the s13 that I can reuse? I understand so far that the s14 rlca's are different, so I will try to source the right side s14 rlca. Or should I get all s14 arms just to be safe? Or should I go ahead and get aftermarket parts?

    Also, since I'm going to be using the q45 rear end and aluminum uprights/ knuckles, z32 and q45 axles, I'm kind of confused which arms will be ok to use whether those be q45, s14 or s13...
    I'm also a little worried whether the balljoints from the s14 rlca's are of the same type as what it needed to work with the q45 aluminum uprights...

    I know some of this was gone over in the s14 subframe into s13, but there was some conflicting or uncertainty regarding this - and I won't be using the s13 uprights so I'm a little confused.

    Anything else I should think about or be concerned about?

    Tips on getting the stock bushings out of the subframe?

    I'm sure I'll have some more questions, but in the meantime here's a couple pics of the subframe in question (which was only $37 btw!)



    1990 240sx - Aristo 2JZGTE, R154, GT37, Defsport Wilwood kit, KTS coilovers - daily driver
    1991 civic si - B18C5 / toda / ATS / hytech - autox
    2001 integra type R - Greddy td05-18g - garage queen

  • #2
    I am in the same position as you as I am soon to be swapping out my HICAS subframe for a non HICAS subframe and will be installing SPL bushings. I am planning to strip the paint with aircraft stripper and then coat the subframe with POR15, a paint that protects against rust.

    I know a lot of people burn out the stock subframe bushings, but I was thinking of using a hole saw to cut out the majority of the rubber, then use a hacksaw for the metal sleeve.
    1991 Silvia Q's - SR20DE

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    • #3
      Wire wheel the rust, then naval jelly, then clean it, paint with Rustoleum gloss black appliance epoxy(no priming needed). One thick coat is all you need(anymore and it can craze/crack upon drying). Dries pretty hard for a spray paint, and is readily available.
      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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      • #4
        IN conjunction with what Def said, it's the perfect time to foam it out. I recently foamed mine and was very happy with the results.

        I undercoated mine. Sure it's TAR, but it's weather proof as well.
        'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
        [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
        [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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        • #5
          I'd install the diff bushings while you have it out as well. It's a LOT easier to work on when you're standing above it vs. laying on the ground benchpressing a differential and hoping the bushings line up.
          Originally posted by SoSideways
          I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
          '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
          '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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          • #6
            It's easier to bolt everything up to the subframe, minus the coilovers, then just raise it up with a jack to the chassis, then bolt the subframe up.

            You can get to nuts and bolts easier that way, and you don't have to mess with trying to install the diff and all that other junk afterwards.
            http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

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            • #7
              Exactly.
              It took me less time to drop the subframe and pull the diff than it did to pull the diff with the subframe in the car.
              Originally posted by SoSideways
              I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
              '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
              '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Matt93SE View Post
                Exactly.
                It took me less time to drop the subframe and pull the diff than it did to pull the diff with the subframe in the car.
                The biggest thign that's a PITA are the axles when doing it in car (IMO) they always seem to flop in the way!

                Also be prepared to break the little e brack cable bolts off hehe.
                'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
                [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
                [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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                • #9
                  I plan to do it exactly like Def has mentioned, wire wheel it all and naval jelly. I planned on primering it and then shooting it with paint but Ill look into the epoxy appliance stuff.

                  I also planned on possibly doing something like this. It was posted by a_ahmed in the other S14 -> S13 thread.







                  I am starting in on my Subframe tonight. O.o

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                  • #10
                    8lb foam works really well and will get rid of some of the driveline noise.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Longfellow View Post
                      8lb foam works really well and will get rid of some of the driveline noise.
                      Any advice on where to get it and how you applied it to get a solid fill?

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                      • #12
                        http://uscomposites.com/foam.html

                        Just pour it in and watch it expand and then do it again untill its full. Also use Duct tape to cover the holes on the bottom.



                        The orange funnel is in a hole I drilled so I could fill that section properly.

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                        • #13
                          The bracing on that subframe is a little over the top. The loading isn't that high, maybe 500-700 lbs max.
                          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Longfellow View Post
                            http://uscomposites.com/foam.html

                            Just pour it in and watch it expand and then do it again untill its full. Also use Duct tape to cover the holes on the bottom.

                            The orange funnel is in a hole I drilled so I could fill that section properly.
                            Those are the exact funnels I used as well lol! 70 some odd cents a piece at ollies odd lot store haha.

                            I only poured two little 8 ounce cups together...had to fill everything 2 times (each beam) but I could have gotten away with damn near 1 if I had the space heater on them the entire time. Heat REALLY makes that stuff go crazy.

                            Originally posted by Def View Post
                            The bracing on that subframe is a little over the top. The loading isn't that high, maybe 500-700 lbs max.
                            It can't be an S14 either...the gas tank would be in the way wouldnt' it?

                            I thought about making my own across the rear toe arms, but a bolt on solution with a threaded tube.
                            'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
                            [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
                            [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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                            • #15
                              The gas tank on an S13 is behind the spare tire well. Mad dorifto polar momen of inertia!
                              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                              Comment

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