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Power Steering Cooler - Anyone add one?

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  • Power Steering Cooler - Anyone add one?

    I removed my factory 'cooling line' (the one that bends up along the cross memeber) due to a leak and was curious to as if anyone suggests running a power steering cooler, or if it would be just as good to run direct and skimp the cooler all together.
    'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
    [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
    [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

  • #2
    Just grab some ~1/2" OD copper tubing and bend yourself a new cooler circuit, maybe with an extra loop in there. It'll cool better than stock and won't cost that much.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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    • #3
      Actually, not sure if copper prices ever came down after the ridiculous raw metal price they saw in '08. So if it's stupid expensive, bend yourself some aluminum tubing and you'll be set. Join it to the stock stuff as you see fit.
      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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      • #4
        Making one obviously isn't an issue (a replica of the OE stuff....however I'm wondering how much an OE style loop would help in general. If the differences are negligible than to me, I'd rather skip that step all together.
        'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
        [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
        [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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        • #5
          I'm thinking more heat leaves through the loop than any other place on the PS circuit. I'd be wary deleting it, especially since our cars are known to get the steering system a little hot(although a lot of that is drifters).

          If you don't want to mess with a lot of tubing I guess a cheap little cooler would be a good idea ziptied to the framerail. There's probably enough flow around the engine bay where you don't really need to duct air to it.
          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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          • #6
            I think mine cost me 30$ to make and its awesome.

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            • #7
              You can see it just behind the 3 core support things



              I just got a fluid cooler from summit racing for like 25$ and 6 feet of 1/2" hose from advance auto.

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              • #8
                Found a better shot:

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                • #9
                  yea, maybe that's what I'll do.

                  I'm addicted to A/N fittings, so I'll hafta do something with them...I also have quite a bit of -6 hose leftover from the fuel system too.

                  Oh well, while I'm waiting for Richards housings this will give me something to do Everything else is ready and done
                  'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
                  [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
                  [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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                  • #10
                    i got an OEM PS cooler from a volvo or something on ebay for a couple bucks (looks just like Longfellow's). plumb it with heater hose and youre good to go.
                    total cost less than 10 bucks.
                    Originally posted by Jason M
                    I have no chance to win without the Giken...

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                    • #11
                      Also it did make a noticeable difference on my car since I'm running 255's up front and my rack has like 220k on it.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by CodyAce View Post
                        yea, maybe that's what I'll do.

                        I'm addicted to A/N fittings, so I'll hafta do something with them...I also have quite a bit of -6 hose leftover from the fuel system too.

                        Oh well, while I'm waiting for Richards housings this will give me something to do Everything else is ready and done
                        I like AN fittings too - so easy to use and make sure they're going to stay leak free.

                        Just cut off any beads on the tubes and then flare the ends with a 37 degree flaring tool. Tube sleeve and nut and BOOM! AN goodness.

                        I think I'd rather have a loop of aluminum PS cooler line rather than a separate finned cooler in front of my radiator though.
                        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                        • #13
                          I removed my factory loop in favor of the same cooler Longfellow has, and that setup lasted less than a lap on track before the pump blew up.
                          Then again the reason I replaced it was cause I blew the line doing some farming and ran the car for a few minutes with no fluid, so the pump may have already been dead..
                          Originally posted by SoSideways
                          I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                          '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                          '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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                          • #14
                            Mines been on the car for about 7 months now with no issue.

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                            • #15
                              I have a few pics, if it would help:
                              The kit is available through Carquest (I think it is actually listed as a transmission cooler) and comes with some length of hose, radiator tires, and the cooler. Cost is around $30.
                              I deleted the loop (that runs along the front crossmember) completely.






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