Recommend a quick release hub please

[Black R]

Hi

I'm looking for a quick release hub for my s13.

I tend to shy away from companies such as nrg, but am looking for a quick release hub.

This will ease ingress and egress with a fixed back bucket and cage.

What I'm worried about is the wheel coming off on track.

[RBbugBITme]

I'm interested in this as well. I'd be more concerned about slop developing over time though.

[Bumnah]

I've got the NRG. I've had it for 2 years or so, it hasn't developed any slop.

If you want something more race oriented.

Lifeline is an option, a bit more expensive however:

http://www.polepositionusa.com/lifeline-s/35.htm

SPA Technique:

http://www.spatechnique.com/product_pages/page.cfm?cat=8

[mmdb]

I have a mono quick release. It only fits one way and has zero play. It's easy to remove, but a lil pain lining up the eyelet type shaft to attach it. I've been using it for the past year without any issues. I haven't had it come off during driving yet. It's simple to check if it's properly been seated or not.

Also works bell has a tilt sort of mechanism that allows driver to easily enter and exit just by pulling a single lever.

[Matt93SE]

I use a fairly cheap splined quick release from Longacre in my car. no problems with the release so far, other than I welded it too far down on the steering shaft so my arms are at full extension. my own damn fault for that one though.
(Mine is the $60 one)

http://www.daymotorsports.com/product/2491/LONGACRE-QUICK-RELEASES

[2Fass240us]

I really like the Tekniq one. Here is my Photobucket album.



I like it because it's easy to pull off based on handle design.

[Bumnah]

I used to have the Tekniq hub on my old car and on my friend's car. Mine was fine, but I also sold it a year after I put it on. The Tekniq hub on my friend's car has developed play. I find the NRG (works rip off) to be a superior design.

[gawdzilla]

i'm using the nrg and it's ok. it feels pretty solid and has locking mechanisms to prevent it from coming off. i've never used other QRs so i can't comment on it's relative quality.

another important factor is wheel placement. the offset of your hub+QR+wheel will vary greatly depending on what combo you go with. i originally went with a momo hub, nrg QR, sparco medium dish wheel and it put the wheel too close to me. plus it was super hard to reach the turn signal stalk. i ended up replacing the momo with an NRG slim hub.

[e1_griego]

I have the circuit sports version of NRG 2.0. 2+ years now with no issue.

[Umai Kakudo]

I have the Lifeline Group N hub as purchased from SPL

http://www.splparts.com/main4/parts/Universal/Safety/Steering/default.htm

It's a very high quality part and I purchased it because it follows the FIA guidelines and to get better quality than the average tuner junk. It also is keyed so you can't put it on crooked which is nice if you get a spline design.

Unfortunately, it developed some longitudinal play in the splines in just a couple weeks and now it rattles and clunks while driving around. The play can't be felt when turning the wheel but if you apply some force in the fore/aft axis the 1/8" of play comes into effect and is annoying.

It also has a pretty high stack height so you may have to change your hub if the wheel ends up too close for your preference.

I'm still using it for now but I'm likely going to go a different route.

I don't like this style of hub as all of the OG version NRG one's I've develop a bit of longitudinal play as well.



I've had a nice thin quick release like the NRG thin one



It worked well for a long time with zero play but the plastic locking pin broke making it unsafe to use.

[McCoy]

I use a fairly cheap splined quick release from Longacre in my car. no problems with the release so far, other than I welded it too far down on the steering shaft so my arms are at full extension. my own damn fault for that one though.
(Mine is the $60 one)
http://www.daymotorsports.com/produc...QUICK-RELEASES

I used one like this but didn't have to do the welding due to someone else building for me to be a bolt-on design (Nissport). The only thing I didn't like about it was that it wasn't keyed... how many times I had to stop to recenter the damn thing.

[Matt93SE]

One fix for that is to use a grinder to cut one tooth off the spline and then weld a blob of aluminum inside two splines on the hub to cover the gap.

If you don't have access to welding aluminum, you can do vice versa welding the steel and cutting the aluminum, but it'll be harder to control a cut inside the small 1" bore.