Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Foam filling chassis...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Foam filling chassis...

    I don't intend to stick with this chassis long-term as I will get another s13 chassis down the line... but I thought I'd experiment with this. I won't do a cage in this thing just because it'd be a waste of time and money on a car I intend to dump. I am however sick of the marshmellow stiffness or lack of any for that matter.

    I know gunluvs14 has done this on his s14 and said that his car felt like an s2000 and 350z stifness wise (just using front and rear STBs and KYB AGX+Stech combo).

    Anyone else on here who's gone down this path? I am waiting to see if he'll respond to me on freshalloy...

    If I'm not mistaken he said he used 8lbs density foam for rockers/etc... and 2lbs density for top pillars near the roof/etc... I am not sure 100%...

    I am not sure what to quite get either as far as I know the kit he used is discontinued or something...

    http://www.foampower.com/store/two_component/index.html

    Then there's this too:

    http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html

    Someone chime in...
    "hexa-dodecahedron-triple-threaded-super-eleventy-way-adjustment-spec" dampers. -Def

  • #2
    The past owner of my car did something similiar to this to my 240... his comments from 2004 when he did this are posted before. As for myself, it still felt like the car was a wet noodle until I caged the car, but I had never driven the car before he did the foaming.

    Originally posted by Steve
    I foamed my 92 240 SX today. If you don't know what that is read this. I did the unibody area that connects the strut to the A pillar and then the cavity that runs between the front and rear tires, right under the edge of the doors. Most cars have a cavity in that area. On the 240 it is about 3X3 inch's. No wires were running in any of these areas. I had to remove seats, pull the carpet back, remove the rear panels. The rear panels kinda fool you. That cavity seems to not be there but if you look carefully you will find some holes that lead into the boxed in frame area. I didn't run into any major problems. You need to be sure to remove the seatbelts and everything that occupies that cavity before you put the foam into it. This is basically what I did in the door sill area.

    The stuff just plan works. The car feels 10 years newer. It takes sharp bumps/broken pavement with a thump rather then a shutter, the car is quieter and just feels more composed. You notice the change right away. When I ussually jack the car up I can see the frame bow. I notice this on every car I work on. Once you look for it you will see it. Right after doing this I jacked the car up and it moved so much less it shocked me. I am 100% pleased. My wife really likes the change as well. This gets
    from me. In the end I used $100 worth of foam. I used two II-22's and one II-12. For more info on where to get the foam look here.
    Ahmed, your going to be throwing $100+ at your car and you can't get the stuff back into a bottle. If I was you, I'd take that money and put it in the "new 240sx fund", but that's me.
    -Monty

    Comment


    • #3
      Personally I would just use 2 lb foam for the entire car. All you are really trying to do is fill the empty space. I don't see why a higher density foam would be necessary. I don't see why you shouldn't do it either, other then it being a pain in the ass that is. Just don't fill the framerails. Foam traps water and can create rust problems, especially in your area. Your car already has enough rust problems.
      function > form
      1990 240sx fastback: IN PROGRESS

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm working on it right now actually. 8lbs in rockers on S14. I'll let you guys know how it goes. This is the 3rd car I've done it to.
        She's built like a Steakhouse, but she handles like a Bistro.

        Comment


        • #5
          I am not rich and I have some debts here n there, plus I have a family (I know some of you do some of you dont), so I have other priorities. This is my hobby... and I'mt rying to make the best of it I can right now. If I wasn't married I'd already have an acid dipped, fully stitch/seam welded, foamed, 12pt+ caged, LS7 twin turbo powered 240 with doublewishbone suspension or some bs like that.... I am trying to make the best of what I can.

          A hundred bux here n there may be a waste, but... a descent cage will cost me 1000-2000 to be made locally... and i wont be doing it on this chassis. Whatever little thing helps i dont mind... plus it's a good practice on this chassis which ill dump anyways I guess. You know what i mean... Some of you can save money on a cage building one yourself, but I don't have the luxury of doing that nor the skills (although I'd love to).

          So I don't really see it so much so as a waste. Hell a full gas tank costs me almost 50 bux once in a while so... the cost is more like a longer ride home and a gas fill up a few times :P
          "hexa-dodecahedron-triple-threaded-super-eleventy-way-adjustment-spec" dampers. -Def

          Comment


          • #6
            I was googling what I can find...

            http://www.autofoam.com.my

            These guys have a whole business revolving around this... it was a bit of an interesting read, plus they have photos of what they've done.
            "hexa-dodecahedron-triple-threaded-super-eleventy-way-adjustment-spec" dampers. -Def

            Comment


            • #7
              I've stopped doing middle steps on car projects. If you're going to replace the chassis, focus on that. If you're going to cage your current one, focus on that. Right now you're focusing on spending $ and having a long mod list.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Bumnah View Post
                I've stopped doing middle steps on car projects. If you're going to replace the chassis, focus on that. If you're going to cage your current one, focus on that. Right now you're focusing on spending $ and having a long mod list.
                This is what I was getting at... but to each his own.
                -Monty

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Bumnah View Post
                  I've stopped doing middle steps on car projects. If you're going to replace the chassis, focus on that. If you're going to cage your current one, focus on that. Right now you're focusing on spending $ and having a long mod list.
                  Originally posted by McCoy View Post
                  This is what I was getting at... but to each his own.
                  You guys are making it sound like he would be wasting a lot of money. It's only $150 or so. So what if you end up just throwing that $150 away in the end? You'll get your $150 worth of enjoyment out of it anyways. I say make the best of what you have, just do it. Why the hell not?
                  function > form
                  1990 240sx fastback: IN PROGRESS

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    IMO, He'd be better off putting that $150 toward something he can move over vs. something he's going to throw away. It's one thing to use the car as a guinea pig to experiement, but why experiment with stuff you're not planning on putting on the final version? You don't foam a caged car, so frankly it's a waste at the end of the day.
                    Originally posted by SoSideways
                    I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                    '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                    '96 240SX- The Track Toy

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Considering you can find a good chassis for maybe $1-2k on the high end, $100-150 seems like a lot to waste on a part that won't transfer over.

                      If you want to transfer stuff over, then just concentrate on finding the replacement and planning that out IMO.
                      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        $150 = 10% if he purchases a shell for $1500.

                        Real does feel like a waste. I can't ever argue my point very hard because I did put in a ton of money on an early 90s Japanese box. If I had only saved it and put it towards.....

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          You guys forget this is canada. Finding a good chassis is like finding a needle in a haystack...You realize most guys sell their SR swapped rusted pieces of garbage with crappy parts or no parts at all for like 6k-10k. And even if I have 10-15k in suspension/brakes/etc... mods i wouldnt be able to sell my car for even 1k cause most are cheapasses that think a ka powered car sucks and needs only an SR to be 10k automatically no matter how ****ty.

                          I would LOVE TO find a local STOCK or NOTHING but a rolling chassis with zero rust/etc... but its very very hard... I've been on the lookout for the past 3 months... way overpriced and junk (rusted).

                          And if I did get one... that would mean I'd want to strip it again (not a problem for me) but also get it stitch/seam welded (lots of money/time I dont have a welder or the skills) and cage (same)... and I'd want to do a full front to rear cage.

                          So although I am happy to agree with your stance it's not as easy as you make it sound to be for me right now... I'd love to guys.
                          Last edited by a_ahmed; 07-14-2009, 07:42 PM.
                          "hexa-dodecahedron-triple-threaded-super-eleventy-way-adjustment-spec" dampers. -Def

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            You need to take a vacation in FL. I sold my very clean coupe roller for $1000, which included a Tomei pump and power brace. Already foamed as well.

                            Very little rust down here. Plus FL is full of cheap a$$e$ that drive the prices way down.
                            She's built like a Steakhouse, but she handles like a Bistro.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              In two days of driving, you can get to the southern US and buy a car and drive it back up there. fly down, drive home. save tons of money. a decent stock S14 with under 100k miles goes for $3-4k around here... and NO RUST.
                              Originally posted by SoSideways
                              I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                              '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                              '96 240SX- The Track Toy

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X