I'm using s14 front control arms with S13 ball joint pressed in. The S13 ball joints are Moog part number K9509.
The front knuckle is an s13 knuckle. I had it cleaned up. Unless the shop sent me back s14 knuckles by accident (highly unlikely), these are the knuckles that have always been on the car.
Here is how they look seated:

Here is another angle:

I took some measurements. The thickest part of the taper seems to be around 17mm and it tapers to 15 mm near the beginning of the threads. Both my MOOG and OEM balljoints showed the same sizes in diameter.
The hole in the upright seems to be 16 mm at the bottom. It should be noted that my dial calipers are old and cost only $6. Their accuracy is up for debate.
I verified that I got the proper ball joints by looking through old pictures of the box.
Is this result normal?
If it's not normal, is it okay like this?
The only quick solution I can think of is to take the uprights off, and take it to the machine shop and have them machined for clearance. It seems pretty pointless to do that since it look like these are all the correct pieces.
Could this difference be because they MOOG pieces and not OEM Nissan?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
The front knuckle is an s13 knuckle. I had it cleaned up. Unless the shop sent me back s14 knuckles by accident (highly unlikely), these are the knuckles that have always been on the car.
Here is how they look seated:

Here is another angle:

I took some measurements. The thickest part of the taper seems to be around 17mm and it tapers to 15 mm near the beginning of the threads. Both my MOOG and OEM balljoints showed the same sizes in diameter.
The hole in the upright seems to be 16 mm at the bottom. It should be noted that my dial calipers are old and cost only $6. Their accuracy is up for debate.
I verified that I got the proper ball joints by looking through old pictures of the box.
Is this result normal?
If it's not normal, is it okay like this?
The only quick solution I can think of is to take the uprights off, and take it to the machine shop and have them machined for clearance. It seems pretty pointless to do that since it look like these are all the correct pieces.
Could this difference be because they MOOG pieces and not OEM Nissan?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
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